Thursday, November 4, 2010

Basic knowledge of textiles

 Basic knowledge of textiles

a textile fiber

1, Definition: fiber is natural or synthetic filament material, textile fibers refers to fibers for textile fabrics.

2, characteristics of textile fibers: textile fiber has a certain length, fineness, flexibility, strength, good physical properties. Also has good chemical stability, such as: cotton, wool, silk, hemp and other natural fiber is an ideal textile fibers.

3, classification of textile fibers: natural fiber and chemical fiber.

① natural fibers include plant fibers, animal fibers and mineral fibers. A plant fiber such as: cotton, hemp, fruit fiber. B animal fibers such as: wool, hair-free, silk. C mineral fibers such as: asbestos.

② chemical fibers, including fibers, synthetic fibers and inorganic fibers. A regenerated fiber such as: viscose fibers, acetate fibers. B synthetic fibers such as: nylon, polyester, acrylic, polyurethane, polyvinyl alcohol, polypropylene and so on. C inorganic fiber such as: glass fiber, metal fiber.

4, the textile properties of common textile fibers:

① wool: moisture, elasticity,UGG shoes, wearability are good, intolerant insects, suitable combination of acid dyes and metal.

② silk: moisture, breathable, good gloss and wearability for acid and direct dyes.

③ Cotton: breathable, moisture, good wearability, resistance to insects, direct reduction of azo appropriate, alkaline media, curing, reactive dyes.

④ viscose fiber: moisture absorption, good ventilation, bright colors, a wide source of raw materials, low cost, the nature of close to natural fibers, for dyes with cotton.

⑤ polyester: fabric, very, cool, good shape retention, wear resistance, dimensional stability, quick-drying washable for disperse dyes, azo dyes, soluble vat dyes. ⑥ Nylon: wear particularly well, poor ventilation, for acid dyes, dispersion dyes. ⑦ acrylic: fluffy is good, there is a sense of fur, for disperse dyes, cationic dyes.

Second, the fiber identification

1, identification methods:

① methods of identification of touch, visual method, combustion method, microscopy, dissolution method, drugs coloring and infrared spectrometry. In practice, identification, often need to use a variety of methods, after comprehensive analysis and research outcome.

② identify the general steps are as follows:

A. First of all identify with the combustion of natural fiber and chemical fiber.

B. If it is natural fiber, the identification of various types of microscope observation of plant fibers and animal fibers. If the chemical fiber, is a combination of fiber melting point, specific gravity, refractive index, solubility and other differences distinguish one by one.

C. Identification of mixed fiber and blended in, generally confirm the microscope can be used which contains some fiber, and then use the appropriate method for each identification.

D. For the fiber after dyeing or finishing, dyeing first general or other appropriate pre-stripping is only possible to ensure reliable identification.

2, fiber calculated

① length system: A. Turks: 1,000 m length of yarn in the moisture regain weight when the number of known characteristics. Formula: TEX = (G / L) × 1000 where: G is the weight of yarn (g), L is the length of yarn (m) B. Dan Neil: 9000 meter-long wire in the moisture regain weight when said the denier. Formula: NTEX = (G / L) × 9000 where: G is the weight of wire (g), L is the length of wire (m)

② fixed weight system: A. the number of public expenditure (public support): 1 gram of yarn (silk) which has a length in meters. Formula: NM = L / G where: 1 yarn (wire) length (m), G for the yarn (silk) and weight (g) B. English count (UK branch): 1 pound of yarn that has the number of 840 yards length. Equation: NE = (L / G) × 840 where: L for the yarn (silk) and length (yards), G for the yarn (silk) and weight (pounds).

4, the choice of common bedding materials

① cotton yarn: 36TEX (16S), 28TEX (21S), 18 × 2TEX32S / 2) 15TEX 40S), 14 × 2TEX ( 42S / 2), 10 × 2TEX (60S / 2) ② Di Miansha line: 20TEX (30XS), 15TEX (40S), 13TEX (4 / S)

three fabric

1, definition: the loom textiles are two systems from each vertical yarn, woven together by certain rules, that is, latitude and longitude lines ups and downs with each other according to certain rules, so that the fabric surface to form a certain the lines and patterns, such organizations as fabric.

2, fabric Category:

① original organization: is the simplest weave, also known as the basic organization. It includes plain weave, twill weave and satin weave three.

② small pattern organization: from the above three basic organizational changes, the joint formed. Yamagata, such as twill, denim urgent.

③ complex organization: it also includes two important organizations (more woven into terry cloth, cotton carpet, etc.), raising organizations (such as corduroy cloth), towels Organization (terry fabrics), double Organization (terry fabrics) and leno.

④ large pattern Organization: also known as the tissue to mention a long, multi-weave flowers and birds, fish and insects, animals and other beautiful patterns. ⑤ satin weave: cloth surface is smooth but not strong, easy to scratch and easy to fluff.

3, the fabric density: Density refers to the weaving unit length in the finished billet warp and weft of the root number, often 10 cm or 1 square inch in the yarn number of roots said. Bedding fabrics common density: 30S yarn 78 * 65,78 * 54,20 S 60 * 60,40 S yarn yarn 90 * 90,110 * 80,133 * 72,28 S 70 * 60 Yarn, unit: root / 1 inch.

4, the fabric moisture regain, Kimisada weight.

① regain = (wet weight - dry weight) / dry weight × 100 % moisture regain: 8.5 % cotton yarn, cotton 8 %, Di Miansha 65/35 3.06 % cloth, polyester cotton 50/50, cloth 4.2 %

② Kimisada Weight: under the fabric moisture regain weight Kimisada weight.

four, textiles Category:

1, by purpose can be divided into clothing textiles, decorative textiles, industrial goods, the three categories;

① clothing textiles, including the production of various textile fabrics and apparel sewing thread, elastic, collar lining, lining and other textile accessories and knitted garments, gloves, socks and so on.

② decorative textiles in the product structure, textured pattern and color of textiles and other areas more than others to have outstanding features, it can be said is a arts and crafts. Can be divided into indoor and supplies, bedding and outdoor products, including household cleaning cloth and a restaurant bath room supplies, such as: carpets, sofa sets, chairs, tapestries, patch, like the cover, a textile, curtains, towels, tea towels, tablecloths, handkerchief; bedding, including bedspreads, sheets, quilt cover, quilt, blanket, towel, pillow, was the core, pillowcases and so on. And other outdoor products, including artificial turf.

③ industrial textiles using a wide range, many varieties, there are common canopy cloth, guns, clothing, filter cloth, screen, Lu Jibu and so on.

2, divided into lines by production class, with class, string class, woven fabric, textile fabrics and other six categories:

① line categories: textile fiber made by spinning yarn, twisted yarn of two or more synthetic line;

② with categories: narrow or tubular fabric, known as the zone type;

③ Rope: Multi-strand twisted rope made of;

④ woven fabrics: woven fabric with warp and weft intersect as woven fabrics;

⑤ knitted fabric: yarn into the ring with each other by a string of sets made of fabric and clothing supplies for the direct molding knitted fabric;

⑥ woven: without traditional textile processes, but by the fiber processing roll formed sheet of textile, known as non-woven fabric.

five warp or weft fabric has a length and width of various fabrics, and fabric edge parallel to the length of the piece as long, long piece of fabric to the radial direction; and perpendicular to the length of the selvage called width, the width of the fabric of the zonal direction. In weaving, the yarn is used for the radial warp for weft yarn as weft.

six, fabric shrinkage

1, the fabric shrinkage is the shrinkage of fabric in the washing or soaking the fabric, the fabric shrinkage percentage. In general, the shrinkage of the largest synthetic fiber fabric is a mix of textiles, followed by wool, linen goods, cotton center, shrink more, and the largest is a viscose fiber, rayon, artificial type fabric.

2, have shrunk fabric factors:

① fabrics of different raw materials, different shrinkage. In general, large hygroscopic fiber, fiber expansion after immersion in water, diameter, length shortened, to a large shrinkage. If the water absorption of up to 13 % viscose fibers, and synthetic fabrics moisture absorption is poor, its shrinkage to small.

② the density of different fabrics, shrinkage is also different. Similar density as the warp and weft, the warp and weft are close to the shrinkage. The density of the fabric, through to shrink to a large, on the contrary, weft density greater than the density of the fabric by the weft shrinkage also large.

③ yarn fabrics of different thickness, shrinkage is also different. Coarse cloth yarn shrinkage on the large, fine yarn count fabric shrinkage to small.

④ different fabric production process, shrinkage is also different. In general, fabric weaving and dyeing process, the fiber to stretch several times, processing time is long, the larger fabric shrinkage tension imposed on the large, contrary to small.

seven, how to identify the fabric: the fabric is that people feel the quality of the fabric used to identify an important element of quality. Specifically, the feeling of touching the fabric in the psychological reactions, as different varieties of fabric, quality level also vary, fabric feel effects, it is quite different. Feel the following aspects: ① the fabric is stiff and smooth body bone and relaxation; ② smooth and rough surface of the fabric; ③ soft and hard fabrics; ④ thin and thick fabrics; ⑤ cold and warm fabrics; ⑥ fabric skin stimulation of small bowel with no sense of thorns. For example: hand on a cool feeling really spun from the feeling of goods; wool fabric with a warm feeling; feel fine and smooth Dacron cotton high count yarns are mostly copy made; feel rough, mostly low-count yarn of the fabric. In addition, people can also force the role with hand stretching, grasping patterns etc, and then observed through the eyes, hands feeling, you can determine the fabric's flexibility, strength, crease resistance and fiber types and so on. But in general, is to buy fabrics and garments feel the most important means.

eight, cotton fabrics

1, Definition: cotton fabrics are cotton as raw material, through the loom, the warp and weft interwoven vertical and horizontal ups and downs made textiles.

2, cotton fabric is divided into: ① white character: ordinary cloth, fine cloth, coarse cloth, canvas, twill fabric, color cloth. ② colored cloth: blue cloth with curing, curing ink cloth, Shihlin blue cloth, Shihlin gray cloth, colored poplin, grumble colored card, colored Chinese do. ③ fabric: a variety of colors and patterns on printing and dyeing cloth. Such as: plain weave cloth, twill cloth printing, printing serge, printed satin. ④ dyed fabric: it is the yarn or thread to go through dyeing, machine woven in the fabric articles such as woven roving, linen, velvet, line on the road, fabrics and so on.

3, pure cotton features: ① moisture absorption: cotton fiber has good moisture absorption, under normal circumstances, the atmosphere surrounding the fibers to absorb water, the water content was 8-10 & # 37;, so it touches the skin, people feel soft and not rigid. If the cotton humidity increases, the higher the ambient temperature, fiber volume will contain all the evaporation of water dispersed, so that the fabric to maintain the water balance, people feel comfortable. ② moisture: As the cotton fiber is a poor conductor of heat and electricity, the thermal conductivity is very low, because of cotton fiber itself has a porous, high flexibility advantages, can accumulate a lot of air between the fibers, the air is poor conductor of heat and electricity Therefore, cotton fiber textile has good moisture retention, wearing pure cotton clothes make feel warm. ③ Heat resistance: Heat can be a good pure cotton, at a temperature below 110 ℃, the fabric will cause evaporation of water, will not damage the fibers, so the cotton fabric at room temperature, wearing use, washing and dyeing fabrics have no effect on ,UGG boots, thus improving the washing durability of pure cotton fabric wearability. ④ Alkaline: cotton resistance on a larger base, cotton fibers in alkali solution, the phenomenon of fiber damage does not occur, the performance benefit after taking on the pollution washing, disinfection of impurities, but can also on cotton textiles dyeing, printing and a variety of processing technology to produce more new varieties of cotton. ⑤ health of: Cotton fiber is natural fiber, and its main component is cellulose, as well as a small amount of waxy material and nitrogenous material and pectin. Cotton fabric by the various inspection and practice, fabric contact with the skin without any stimulation, no negative effects on the human body can not hurt to wear a long time, in good health.

nine, man-made fiber textile fibers ) ( 1, Definition: chemical fiber is the use of natural or synthetic polymer material polymer material obtained by the chemical processing technology general textile fibers. 2, classification ( by raw materials and production methods sub ): ① man-made fibers: is the largest chemical fiber production of varieties, it is the use of natural cellulose or protein polymer material such as wood, bagasse, reed, soy, cheese, etc. as raw materials, chemical and mechanical processing. For example: rayon, artificial silk, fake fur, tiger, kapok, cotton rich and powerful. ② synthetic fibers: synthetic fibers is a large class of chemical fibers, it is the use of petroleum and coking industry, chemical industry by-product. For example: polyester, nylon, eye-lun, polyvinyl alcohol,Bailey UGG boots, polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride fiber and so on are synthetic.

ten, blended fabric: synthetic fabric blended with other chemical fiber cotton, silk, hemp spinning until the hybrid natural fibers woven into a textile product. For example: cotton cloth, polyester wool gabardine and so on.

XI, fabric products, washing, ironing, collection, storage points:

1, a key component of clothing should pay attention to security type, such as the shoulder, collar, cuffs,bailey UGG boots, etc., especially after a hard resin finish collar, be sure to use scrub.

2, a typical style of fabrics, it is necessary to protect its unique appearance within the cell, such as lights Rui velvet, velveteen and so on. When twisted, to pile the bread on the inside, drying leveled off when opened, to avoid suede deformation. The jacquard fabric, not scrubbing vigorously with a stiff brush to prevent the broken yarn fluff.

3, with good physical and chemical properties of cotton, however, should not be soaked in cleaning solution too long, too long exposure time should not prevent the destruction of the color.

4, easy to swap floating color cotton fabric, wash and take to prevent the string of dye color of the fabric appearance. 

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